2nd stop: switzerland

One word: breathtaking. Switzerland is hands down the most beautiful place that I have ever visited (2nd being the Cinqueterre in Italy, 3rd: Costa Rica, 4th: Venice :). I hope all of you can go there someday if you haven't already. This part of our trip was a nice change from the bustle of a big city - all of the towns we visited were teeny tiny. I was in awe of the different ways people live.

We took a quick flight in from Amsterdam and picked up our rental car in Basel, Switzerland. We had previously bought a GPS with European maps, which made the whole road trip process incredibly slick. No squabbles over directions, no banging our heads against the steering wheel in frustration (I mean, that wouldn't happen in our car anyway but...:)

Our first night was spent in Lauterbrunnen Valley. Here is a shot from our hotel room at the Hotel Staubbach. We were lovin' life as we laid in bed and looked out at this view. Incredible! In the parking lot below was a cow beauty contest - a sight every person has to see. All of the cows in Switzerland wear HUGE bells around their necks, so the farmers can find them in the hilltops. Apparently on this particular day they were having the "Miss Lauterbrunnen" contest, where the best cow is chosen and then all of the cows are paraded through the streets - also something we saw often in Switzerland, as cows have to be exercised regularly.

View from our hotel room

A highlight of this town was our cheese fondue dinner. Switzerland is known for their great cheeses! As you can see, Jeff takes his cheese very seriously.

The weather was insanely cold - this town was our first glimpse at "the winter that came a month early" as the locals informed us (lucky us). It didn't stop us though - the first day we took a lift (straight) up to Mannlichen, which runs as a ski area in the winter on one side, but is literally on the edge of a cliff above Lauterbrunnen Valley. The ride was a bit nervewrecking, but I decided to just get used to it - it would be the first of many! I was nearly frostbitten by the time the photography session was over, so we went into the restaurant for some warm drinks (there are restaurants EVERYwhere, literally)! Here are some pics of the view at Mannlichen, and the gondola ride up.

It was a steep slope to say the least!

Here we are pretending we aren't freezing our rear ends off

The second day we parked our car, and took our luggage with us up a different gondola to stay in the teeny tiny town of Murren (only accessible by gondola), to stay for two nights. This was our favorite portion of the whole trip. Such a quaint and gorgeous place. We rented a little chalet that was brand new, warm and cozy, and with a great view (Hotel Blumental, ask for the chalet).

The gondola ride up to Murren

Our time in Murren included several hikes, wonderfully sunny (yet cold) weather, relaxing on our chalet balcony, drinking wine and tasting different Swiss beers, exploring the town, and eating a LOT of cheese. Murren was very low-key, due to the fact that it's off-season (between summer and ski season). We ate dinner both nights at a great little restaurant - thankfully we loved it, because it was the only place open in town (cheese fondue round #2).

The town of Murren - to the right is a steep drop-off

View from our chalet

One of our hikes, from Murren to Grutschalp - spectacular the entire way

Another hike, down to the even tinier town of Gimmewald (200 people). Cows everywhere!

Last hike: up to Allmendhubel, steep all the way up

The highlight of our trip was definitely the visit to the Schilthorn restaurant and viewpoint. Remember the picture I posted before our trip of the view in the Swiss alps? That was it. James Bond was filmed here, and it's one of the highest peaks in Europe. We took several gondolas/lifts to get there, but once we arrived the view was out of this world. Of course we made the most of our spendy little ticket up there and ate lunch and had beers here too, in the rotating restaurant!

On our way up to the Schilthorn - you can see it in the distance on the peak

Enjoying the sunshine!

The spectacular viewpoint, with 360 degree views of the snowy Alps

In Switzerland, this is a typical gorgeous setting you will drive by


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Observations I had about Switzerland...

*The locals are often people who come intending to stay a summer, and never leave. It's that great.
*Many new chalets mixed in with the old - like circa 1353!
*Most people have huge gardens and cows roam freely. At certain times of the year the farmers move their cows from lower to higher altitudes. We could always hear the cows because of the giant bells on their necks.
*Manure smells are common...
*The local kids ride gondolas to school!
*We ordered beer at the local Murren restaurant - Jeff asked the owner what kinds they had on tap - the owner nonchalantly answered with a smile, "the kind over there in the barrel!" It's quite a bit simpler, but the beer is GOOD.
*Cheese fondue is to die for.
*Cleanest bathrooms I've seen in Europe.
*Which brings me to...the TP feels like sandpaper, wherever you go. My Charmin Ultra Ultra-loving friend W would absolutely hate it.
*Most expensive place I've ever been. A Big Mac was $12 SF (=$12 US), and it was around $110 to fill up our small car with gas (but that's just Europe's gas prices I suppose). I heart America.
*The language is Swiss-German.
*We could not read any road signs! EVER!
*All of the countries are so close to each other. At one point on our road trip, we weren't sure which country we were in - Austria, Germany, or Switzerland! So funny.

1st stop: amsterdam

As I say about many European cities...Amsterdam is a truly unique and fabulous city. Similar to Venice, Amsterdam is filled with canals that run between stylishly old buildings, row houses, and market squares (typical age of buildings is 16th century!). The city is very environmentally friendly, much like Portland, and most people ride bikes to get around - there are thousands, everywhere. People come from all over the world to check out the architecture here. There is a very hip scene going on in this city, with great little boutiques and decadent restaurants. We felt right at home!

Our first four days were spent here, exploring the city. We visited the house where Anne Frank and her family hid during World War II, went on several boat tours on the canals, visited the Van Gogh museum, walked a gazillion miles, gawked at the Red Light District (yes, the girls are posed behind glass windows, literally at eye level with street walkers, wearing almost nothing - it's shocking to say the least), explored Vondel park, shopped, and had some of the best food of our entire trip. Amsterdam is definitely a city I will return to - I LOVED almost everything about it (besides the prostitution, and they get a lot of rain).

A lovely little canal

I like my savory breakfasts...so, it was a sacrifice to go with Jeff to the Dutch pancake house :)

On one of the main canals

Typical row houses you will see in Amsterdam, all hundreds of years old

This bar we had to stop into for an afternoon beer - isn't it so cute? Been around since 1695!

There are bikes EVERYWHERE in Amsterdam - this is the primary method of transportation

Our second night, we had the most fabulous 3-course dinner of our trip at Seasons restaurant. Charming, friendly, and designed for gourmet foodies is how I would describe it! A must-visit if in Amsterdam.

4 countries, 16 days

Wow, it feels like we've been gone forever.

Jeff and I just returned from a long jaunt to Europe. So much has happened in the past few weeks! In the next few posts I will attempt to catapult you to the places we explored - the world is a fascinating place and I think it's such a joy to hear and share experiences with other travelers.

So off we go...Holland, Switzerland, Germany, and Austria (with a stopover in Iceland)...all in a nutshell!

travel alert? don't worry. it may be worse here.

What a fortunate coincidence that there is all of this hub-bub about terrorism in Europe, less than two weeks before Jeff and I leave for our trip. FAN-TASTIC. When my dad sent me an article talking about the travel alerts, of course my immediate reaction was "whyyyy nowww?!" My fingers began flying across Jeff's iphone, googling for more information. (For those of you who haven't heard, a travel alert is not the same as a travel warning - govenment officials have said "We are not, repeat not, advising Americans not to go to Europe.")

Thankfully, I stumbled upon this article in the midst of my research. You have to appreciate such a perspective. Yes, we should be realistic also - terrorism is a threat in Europe, and even more so in the U.S. - BUT, if we are going to start worrying about death threats, we should broaden our worries to other departments besides terrorism. And...maybe this is ignorant of me to say, but it seems like all of this media buzz would deter terrorists to an area less "alerted" perhaps?...

I would rather continue on with my travel explorations as long as the government is saying it's safe to do so (which they are - even government officials who declared this warning are still traveling internationally, only telling people to become more aware). Just thought you might enjoy this, from my good buddy Rick Steeves. :)

Click here for the article.

what a deal

Just had to share - I heard about this website from my dad, and now I check it often. Slickdeals.net.
It lists a few deals from all over the the internet each day. The first time I checked it, I got 2 yrs of US Weekly magazine (normally $136) for $40. It gave me a coupon code that took $96 off at checkout! There was also a deal for a Dyson vaccuum for $199 at Best Buy, when normally they are hard to find for less than $300. Today I just got 2 years of Elle Magazine for $5 total, and Vogue for $9. So check it out! I think it's sorta neat.

tripadvisor

My favorite website you ask?

Tripadvisor.com

If you haven't ever visited this wonderful little website, you simply must. It is practically the encyclopedia of hotels and travel advice in my opinion. Ask a question, and you will most likely find the answer from another traveler who already wondered the same thing. This site is an incredible resource for anyone planning any type of trip, big or small. I use it hundreds of times when planning a trip.

You will find honest reviews from even the smallest bed and breakfasts, as well as candid traveler photos of hotels - one of my favorite features of the site. How many times have you seen picture-perfect photos of a hotel and its rooms, only to arrive at the hotel and feel completely mislead? The candid traveler photos always help me to decide whether I will really like a hotel or not, because they are REAL (and so are the reviews).

You can also type in and click on a city, i.e. Chicago, and it will list the top rated hotels in order starting with #1. I love that the top rated hotels are not always the most expensive either - if you choose a hotel that is near the top of that list, you can never go wrong.

The search feature is fantastic. For example, I was looking into whether a Garmin GPS would work in Europe, and I found dozens of posts from people on this subject. I searched for what others were saying about the weather in October in Switzerland and found my answer right away.

AND...an added bonus...sometimes while sifting through posts you will stumble upon a little something extra too! :) The other day I was reading about another traveler's trip, which was similar to the one we're taking next month, and he suggested eating breakfast at this restaurant in Switzerland, the Schilthorn...

I would say it's a must-visit!

travel inspiration

Once in a while I read things in magazines that get me all jazzed up. Yesterday I came upon this little tidbit in Conde Nast Travel (FABULOUSNESS), in an opening letter from the editor-in-chief. I hope it excites you as much as it excited me!

"There's a new kind of energy shaping the world, we sense, and this issue is a testament to that. We call it the power of travel. In ways large and small, from the hinterlands of Africa to the surprisingly green bowers of Berlin, from Sydney Harbor to the Holy Land, travel inspires and transforms and is, increasingly, an enormous force for change - both personal (what it does for you) and planetary (how if affects the people and places you visit)."

Thinking back on the places Jeff and I have traveled to, we have been so affected by all of the wonderful people we have met, as well as by all of the diverse experiences. So many memories are bold in my mind. Chatting with a wine shop owner in a tiny village in Italy...seeing poor villages flooding in Costa Rica...getting to see wild animals we've never seen before...taking a tour with a local guide through the jungle...trying to figure out what we're ordering when the menu is not in English...hearing the rumbles of an active volcano...getting completely lost in an unfamiliar city...viewing artwork in person that we've only heard about in history books...learning bits of a new language in every place we've been...being hosted by some of the most warm and welcoming people...for me, it has all been a delight, and a learning experience. I only hope we have left positive traces in the places we have visited in the same positive way that they have affected us.

These things have helped shape who I am - as cheesy as it sounds - it's true! Learning more about and immersing ourselves in different countries has been so important in growing our appreciation of what is really out there, no matter how far away it is. Fortunately now too, travel doesn't have to be expensive - not everyone can travel the world whenever they want to (including me). Travel deals are in great abundance, as more and more people are getting the travel itch.

There is so much world to see...I am constantly in awe, and I hope you are too.

mahi mahi with thai green curry sauce

Just made this Sunset magazine recipe, and it is TO-DIE-FOR! Not to mention so easy. This meal should be in a restaurant - it's elegant and super tasty. I used frozen Mahi Mahi from Trader Joe's (cheap! It was $5 for two huge fillets) - make sure you buy plain Mahi Mahi, not the kind that already comes marinated. Another note: below is actually a half recipe - the original calls for absolutely too much sauce, you will have gobs of leftovers. This should be enough sauce even for four fillets.

1/2 c. fresh basil leaves, divided
1 can coconut milk (I used light)
2 Tbsp. Thai green curry paste
1 Tbsp. Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce
1 Tbsp. sugar
2 Mahi Mahi fillets
1 large bell pepper, seeded, cut into rings
Cooked rice (I use jasmine)
Lime wedges

1. Heat grill to high.
2. Puree all but a few shreds of the basil leaves (left for garnishing later), 1/2 can of the coconut milk, and curry paste in the blender. Cook mixture in a saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring, until bubbly, 2-3 minutes. Add remaining coconut milk, 1/4 c. water, fish sauce, and sugar. Cook sauce at a low boil until thickened, 10 minutes.
3. Coat fish and peppers with with 3-4 Tbsp. sauce.
4. Oil cooking grate, using tongs and a wad of oiled paper towels. Grill peppers, covered, turning once, until browned, 4-5 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Grill fish, covered, turning once, until just cooked through, 3-5 minutes (cook it until it is slightly underdone - overcooked fish is nasty!!). With a wide spatula, carefully transfer to another plate.
5. Spoon rice onto plates and top with fish. Spoon sauce over fish and rice. Thinly slice remaining basil and garnish. Serve with lime wedges and more sauce.

updates

It's been a few weeks! Don't give up on me...I just haven't had a lot to blog about! Not to mention we've been wrapping up the last weeks of summer, with the usual insanity of activities.

Can I first just say how utterly bummed I am at this sudden burst of rain we are having? I have to be honest - I am so tired of everyone saying how much they are excited for the rain and loving it. THIS torrential downpouring IS GROSS. What's wrong with everyone?!! Either they're all lying or I'm just off. I was just talking with a friend about it today. Aside from the wonderful fall clothes which are emerging, I am DREADING this season change. Some people live for sunshine and nice weather; others love the season changes. I know I would be 100% satisfied living in a climate where the sun shines year round. But that's just me. In my mind, the sun makes everyone happier - not to mention, more attractive (at least for the time being :)!!

So, let's just cherish the memories of the last bits of summer. Here are some updates from the past couple weeks since I've been the MIA blogger...

*Spent a lovely weekend in Seattle with my family over Labor Day - Jeff and my dad spent Saturday at a local "Oregon fan" bar, cheering on the Ducks, while my mom and I power-shopped for the latest fall fashions. We even saw sunshine a couple of the days!

*Have upped the urgency of trying to sell our house - finally lowered the price, and are getting more aggressive. We had an open house on Sunday which was quite successful if you ask me! Jeff and I were just talking about how we felt encouraged through it - we were just reminded not to give up, and that there are still people out there who are/may be very interested even though this market sucks. Last weekend we looked at a couple of "vintage" style Portland bungalows that were actually new or remodeled, and it definitely got us giddy. We are starting to get excited about how much farther our money will go when we do buy again!

*The leaves are starting to change - ahh, fall is here! Enjoying the colors and thoughts of cozy meals as the weather starts to get cooler...

*We are in full-swing trip-planning mode (aka Kelly is spending many hours :). We take off for a trip to Holland, Switzerland, Germany, and Austria in just one month. This will include a few days in Amsterdam, some cozy time in little mountain villages in the Swiss Alps (only accessible by gondola), a drive through romantic Bavaria, Germany, a few days in Salzburg (home of the Sound of Music), seeing the sights in and around Munich, walking through castles, concentration camps, and finally driving the Romantic Road to Frankfurt. It will be quite the adventure, as neither of us have rented a car in previous Europe excursions! Hopefully we don't get lost and buried in the side of some Swiss peak. :)

*Which brings me to...I cannot stop thinking about cheese fondue.

*Duck football season has begun, which means our (well, ok, sometimes I don't always watch...) Saturdays will be filled with passionate hours of cheering for our home team. Go DUCKS!

*Work slowed down for me, for about a week, but now I'm in full swing mode again. Jeff also has had a normal schedule for a couple months now (thank goodness), aside from some freelance projects he's been doing.

So you can see, all is well! At the close of the summer, I have just been feeling especially blessed to have such amazing friends and family in a close range. Being home more the past month or so has given us more time to enjoy everyone that we love so, so much. Despite the icky weather we get here in Oregon, I would stay just because of the people in our lives that we wouldn't want to live without!

love it here

Just returned from our semi-annual trip to Black Butte with Jeff's family. Always so relaxing! I swear I could stay in that place forever. The weather wasn't the best, but still we got in some good games of tennis, hottubbin', golf, wine, walks, movies, reading, and yummy food (including my smoked oysters which everyone was afraid to touch :). Sad to see August end, but this was a great last hoorrah!

Sunday view of the mountains from the BB Lodge

The house we stayed at this year - great deck on the golf course

Tennis time

Susie and Terry at Sunday breakfast at the lodge

Jeff and Grandma on a sunny post-breakfast walk